From 6eeeb11ab4e0aa0481408dedb262ab6884bcaf47 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Eryn Wells Date: Sun, 23 Apr 2023 21:58:15 +0900 Subject: [PATCH] More Japan writing --- content/series/2023-japan/_index.md | 414 ++++++++++++++++++---------- 1 file changed, 264 insertions(+), 150 deletions(-) diff --git a/content/series/2023-japan/_index.md b/content/series/2023-japan/_index.md index a6c1adb..2d8c308 100644 --- a/content/series/2023-japan/_index.md +++ b/content/series/2023-japan/_index.md @@ -2,221 +2,310 @@ title: "Traveling to 日本" draft: true date: 2023-01-31T09:28:13-08:00 +toc: true +posts: false --- -At the beginning of April 2023, {{< tess >}} and I traveled to Japan for two weeks. +At the beginning of April 2023, {{< tess >}} and I traveled to Japan for two +weeks. -## {{< ruby Kyōto ja >}}京都{{< /ruby >}} +## {{% ruby Kyōto ja %}}京都{{% /ruby %}} -After a twelve hour flight from San Franciso, we landed in Osaka around 2:30 in -the afternoon on Sunday. We cleared customs, and headed to the {{< ruby Haruka -ja >}}はるか{{< /ruby >}} Express from KIX to Kyōto. After taking a brief walk -around the neighborhood to get our bearings, we found dinner at a tiny izakaya -in an alley on the western side of Kyōto's biggest river, the {{< ruby -Kamogawa ja >}}鴨川{{< /ruby >}}. +After a twelve hour flight from San Franciso, we landed in Ōsaka around 2:30 in the afternoon on Sunday. We cleared +customs, and headed to the {{< ruby Haruka ja >}}はるか{{< /ruby >}} Express from KIX to Kyōto. After taking a brief +walk around the neighborhood to get our bearings, we found dinner at a tiny izakaya in an alley on the western side of +Kyōto's biggest river, the {{< ruby Kamogawa ja >}}鴨川{{< /ruby >}}. -### Day 2 +### Day 2: {{% ruby "Fushimi Inari-Taisha" ja %}}伏見稲荷大社{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja %}}清水寺{{% /ruby %}} -The next day we were up bright and early -- thanks jet lag! -- and headed to {{< -ruby "Fushimi Inari-Taisha" ja >}}伏見稲荷大社{{< /ruby >}} a Shinto shrine -taking up an entire mountain known for its [sprawling -pathways][fushimi-inari-torii] lined with bright vermillion {{< ruby torii ja ->}}鳥居{{< /ruby >}}. +The next day we were up bright and early -- thanks jet lag! -- and headed to {{< ruby "Fushimi Inari-Taisha" ja >}} +伏見稲荷大社{{< /ruby >}} a Shinto shrine taking up an entire mountain known for its +[sprawling pathways][fushimi-inari-torii] lined with bright vermillion {{< ruby torii ja >}}鳥居{{< /ruby >}}. {{< figures/image name="fushimi-inari-path.jpg" >}} -We had lunch with Tess' friend and colleague Florian and his wife Namino at a -nearby spot known for its grilled eel. That afternoon, we walked from our AirBnb -up to [{{< ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja >}}清水寺{{< /ruby >}}][kiyomizu-dera-post] -temple, a Buddhist temple in the hills on the east side of Kyoto, then wandered -back through Gion and down the arcade shopping streets in central Kyoto. We -ended the night at a newly-opened craft beer bar run by a French man with a +We had lunch with Tess' friend and colleague Florian and his wife Namino at a nearby spot known for its grilled eel. +That afternoon, we walked from our AirBnb up to [{{< ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja >}}清水寺{{< /ruby >}}][kiyomizu-dera-post] +temple, a Buddhist temple in the hills on the east side of Kyōto, then wandered back through Gion and down the arcade +shopping streets in central Kyōto. We ended the night at a newly-opened craft beer bar run by a French man with a substantial selection of craft beers from all over Japan. -### Day 3 +### Day 3: {{% ruby Nara ja %}}奈良{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Kinkaku-ji ja %}}金閣寺{{% /ruby %}} -The third day, we were up early again. We got a quick breakfast at a local -place, and hopped on the train to {{< ruby Nara ja >}}奈良{{< /ruby >}}, the -ancient capital city of Japan. Nara's main city park is home to hundreds of wild -deer that tourists can feed with rice crackers bought from stands throughout the -park. +The third day, we were up early again. We got a quick breakfast at a local place, and hopped on the train to {{< ruby +Nara ja >}}奈良{{< /ruby >}}, the ancient capital city of Japan. Nara's main city park is home to hundreds of wild deer +that tourists can feed with rice crackers bought from stands throughout the park. -The main draw for us was {{< ruby Tōdai-ji ja >}}東大寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a -Buddhist temple in the middle of Nara Park that houses a truly enormous cast -bronze Buddha. After visiting our biggest buddy, we grabbed lunch at a cafe in -Nara and hopped back on the train to Kyoto. +The main draw for us was {{< ruby Tōdai-ji ja >}}東大寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a Buddhist temple in the middle of Nara +Park that houses a truly enormous cast bronze Buddha. After visiting our biggest buddy, we grabbed lunch at a cafe in +Nara and hopped back on the train to Kyōto. -Once we made it back, we took a bus up to {{< ruby Kinkaku-ji ja >}}金閣寺{{< -/ruby >}} temple, a.k.a. the Golden Pavillion. +Once we made it back, we took a bus up to {{< ruby Kinkaku-ji ja >}}金閣寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a.k.a. the Golden +Pavillion. {{< photo "2023/kinkaku-ji" >}} -We ended the day with a stop at [Beer Pub Takumiya][beerpub-takimuya], staffed by -three gregarious and friendly Japanese guys. We got some much-needed time off -our feet and had a good time chatting with them, and the Austrailian guy who sat -next to us. After struggling to find a noodle place, we ended up at a small -izakaya in a tiny alley off one of Kyoto's busy main streets. +We ended the day with a stop at [Beer Pub Takumiya][beerpub-takimuya], staffed by three gregarious and friendly Japanese +guys. We got some much-needed time off our feet and had a good time chatting with them, and the Austrailian guy who sat +next to us. After struggling to find a noodle place, we ended up at a small izakaya in a tiny alley off one of Kyōto's +busy main streets. -### Day 4 +### Day 4: {{% ruby Sword ja %}}刀{{% /ruby %}}! -Our fourth and final full day in Kyoto was rainy. We started with a stop at -Lorimer Kyoto for a real Japanese breakfast. The food was fantastic, though we -were both a little put off by the constant stream of Christian praise music they -had going. We stopped at Walden Woods for a coffee on the way back to the -Airbnb. +Our fourth and final full day in Kyōto was rainy. We started with a stop at Lorimer Kyōto for a real Japanese breakfast. +The food was fantastic, though we were both a little put off by the constant stream of Christian praise music they had +going. We stopped at Walden Woods for a coffee on the way back to the Airbnb. -After collecting a load of laundry we'd left in the machine downstairs, we took -the train north a few stops and walked over to {{< ruby Heian-jingu ja ->}}平安神宮{{< /ruby >}}. _(Explanation of what this shrine is.)_ Wrapping -around the shrine itself is a beautiful garden filled with native trees and -plants, ponds and rivers. It was lovely to wander the pathways in the light -rainfall. +After collecting a load of laundry we'd left in the machine downstairs, we took the train north a few stops and walked +over to {{< ruby "Heian-jingū" ja >}}平安神宮{{< /ruby >}}. _(Explanation of what this shrine is.)_ Wrapping around the +shrine itself is a beautiful garden filled with native trees and plants, ponds and rivers. It was lovely to wander the +pathways in the light rainfall. -We walked from there to the [Kyoto Handicrafts -Center][kyoto-handicrafts-center], stopped in a place for udon, and took a bus -over to the Imperial Palace in Kyoto-Gyoen. We had hoped to catch an English -language tour, but it was canceled that day, so we took a brochure and wandered -the grounds, marveling at the blending of Heian and Edo period architecture. The -grounds have some lovely gardens. +We walked from there to the [Kyōto Handicrafts Center][kyoto-handicrafts-center], stopped in a place for udon, and took +a bus over to the Imperial Palace in Kyōto-Gyoen. We had hoped to catch an English language tour, but it was canceled +that day, so we took a brochure and wandered the grounds, marveling at the blending of Heian and Edo period +architecture. The grounds have some lovely gardens. -On the way to the palace we happened upon [Tozando][tozando] where they sell -martial arts gear, including {{< ruby iaitō ja >}}居合刀{{< /ruby >}} and real -{{< ruby nihontō ja >}}日本刀{{< /ruby >}}. One of my goals for this trip was to -find and purchase a sword, and I did! +On the way to the palace we happened upon [Tozando][tozando] where they sell martial arts gear, including {{< ruby iaitō +ja >}}居合刀{{< /ruby >}} and real {{< ruby nihontō ja >}}日本刀{{< /ruby >}}. One of my goals for this trip was to find +and purchase a sword, and I did! -After our stop at Tozando, we met our friends Ana, Megumi, and their new baby -Sen for dinner at their apartment near Kyoto University. Ana and Megumi are real -foodies and pulled out all the stops for us: two very interesting bottles of -sake, a 60-day dry aged ribeye, and a number of {{< ruby kyo-yasai ja >}} -京野菜{{< /ruby >}}, or locally grown veggies. We wrapped it all up with freshly -made mochi wrapped in mulberry leaves, and some popcicles. +After our stop at Tozando, we met our friends Ana, Megumi, and their new baby Sen for dinner at their apartment near +Kyōto University. Ana and Megumi are real foodies and pulled out all the stops for us: two very interesting bottles of +sake, a 60-day dry aged ribeye, and a number of {{< ruby kyo-yasai ja >}} 京野菜{{< /ruby >}}, or locally grown veggies. +We wrapped it all up with freshly made mochi wrapped in mulberry leaves, and some popcicles. -### Day 5 +### Day 5: {{% ruby Thunderbird ja %}}サンダーバード{{% /ruby %}} -Thursday was a travel day. We had breakfast and coffee in the morning, then -packed up and checked out of our AirBnb. With a few hours to go until our train -to {{< ruby Kanazawa jp >}}金沢{{< /ruby >}}, we did some shopping and wrote -some postcards. After a quick bowl of ramen for lunch, we caught the {{< ruby -Thunderbird ja >}}サンダーバード{{< /ruby >}} Express from Kyoto to Kanazawa. +Thursday was a travel day. We had breakfast and coffee in the morning, then packed up and checked out of our AirBnb. +With a few hours to go until our train to {{< ruby Kanazawa jp >}}金沢{{< /ruby >}}, we did some shopping and wrote some +postcards. After a quick bowl of ramen for lunch, we caught the {{< ruby Thunderbird ja >}}サンダーバード{{< /ruby >}} +Express from Kyōto to Kanazawa. -## {{< ruby Kanazawa ja >}}金沢{{< /ruby >}} +## {{% ruby Kanazawa ja %}}金沢{{% /ruby %}} -We arrived at our ryokan almost two hours late. They had clearly been waiting -for us. We were greeted warmly by the staff and led to our room where we were -given tea and a sweet and educated about how to wear our yukata and samue by a -very sweet and patient Japanese lady. We took some time to get settled in our -room, bathed, and enjoyed our private onsen bath. Dinner was at 19:00: an -elaborate {{< ruby kaiseki ja >}}解析{{< /ruby >}} meal made up of a multitude of -small dishes of all different kinds. +We arrived at our ryokan almost two hours late. They had clearly been waiting for us. We were greeted warmly by the +staff and led to our room where we were given tea and a sweet and educated about how to wear our +{{< ruby yukata ja >}}浴衣{{< /ruby >}} and {{< ruby pajamas ja >}}作務衣{{< /ruby >}} by a very sweet and patient +Japanese lady. We took some time to get settled in our room, bathed, and enjoyed our private onsen bath. Dinner was at +19:00: an elaborate {{< ruby kaiseki ja >}}解析{{< /ruby >}} meal made up of a multitude of small dishes of all +different kinds. ### Day 6 -In the morning, our Japanese hostess brought us breakfast. Tess enjoyed the -onsen in our room while I explored the public onsen on the grounds. Our ryokan -has three public baths: one large gender-segregated bath downstairs, and two +In the morning, our Japanese hostess brought us breakfast. Tess enjoyed the onsen in our room while I explored the +public onsen on the grounds. Our ryokan has three public baths: one large gender-segregated bath downstairs, and two baths on the roof that swap between men-only and women-only at set times of day. -At 10 we took a shuttle to Mattō station and a local train to -{{< ruby "Kanazawa Station" ja en >}}金沢駅{{< /ruby >}}. When we arrived in -Kanazawa, we walked to [Curio Espresso][curio-espress] for a coffee. (Breakfast -didn't include coffee, and neither Tess nor I are quite able to give that up.) -From there we walked to Kanazawa Castle and the {{< ruby Kenrokuen ja >}} -兼六園{{< /ruby >}} garden. +At 10 we took a shuttle to Mattō station and a local train to {{< ruby "Kanazawa Station" ja en >}}金沢駅{{< /ruby >}}. +When we arrived in Kanazawa, we walked to [Curio Espresso][curio-espress] for a coffee. (Breakfast didn't include +coffee, and neither Tess nor I are quite able to give that up.) From there we walked to Kanazawa Castle and the {{< ruby +Kenrokuen ja >}} 兼六園{{< /ruby >}} garden. -On advice from Ana, we tried to go to [7th Gyoza no Mise][7th-gyoza], but it -ended up being too long a wait. From there we got back on the bus to Kanazawa -Eki, got some lunch in the station, and took the local train back to Mattō. +On advice from Ana, we tried to go to [7th Gyoza no Mise][7th-gyoza], but it ended up being too long a wait. From there +we got back on the bus to Kanazawa Eki, got some lunch in the station, and took the local train back to Mattō. -Back at the ryokan, we had a langorous soak in the onsen and another beautiful -and delicious kaiseki meal before turning in for the night. +Back at the ryokan, we had a langorous soak in the onsen and another beautiful and delicious kaiseki meal before turning +in for the night. -### Day 7 +### Day 7: {{% ruby Shinkansen ja %}}新幹線{{% /ruby %}} -Time to leave the ryokan. In the morning we had breakfast at the ryokan and then -got ready to check out by 10:00. We took the shuttle to Mattō station, and the -local train to Kanazawa. There, we bought a pair of tickets for the {{< ruby +Time to leave the ryokan. In the morning we had breakfast at the ryokan and then got ready to check out by 10:00. We +took the shuttle to Mattō station, and the local train to Kanazawa. There, we bought a pair of tickets for the {{< ruby shinkansen ja >}}新幹線{{< /ruby >}} to {{< ruby Tōkyō ja >}}東京{{< /ruby >}}. Fast trains gonna go fast. -## {{< ruby Tōkyō ja >}}東京{{< /ruby >}} +## {{% ruby Tōkyō ja %}}東京{{% /ruby %}} -Our train dropped us off at {{< ruby "Tōkyō Station" ja >}}東京駅{{< /ruby >}}, -which is _quite_ an introduction to the hustle of Japan's biggest city. In terms -of sheer size and number of people, Tōkyō is on another level from any city I've -been in. We made it successfully to the Uedo line that brought us to a stop near -our hotel, the [New Otani][new-otani]. +Our train dropped us off at {{< ruby "Tōkyō Station" ja >}}東京駅{{< /ruby >}}, which is _quite_ an introduction to the +hustle of Japan's biggest city. In terms of sheer size and number of people, Tōkyō is on another level from any city +I've been in. We made it successfully to the Uedo line that brought us to a stop near our hotel, the [New +Otani][new-otani]. -After we got settled, we went for a walk around our new neighborhood. We both -needed a little pick-me-up, and we found [Hocus Pocus][hocus-pocus], a small -nearby cafe selling donuts and pour over coffee. +After we got settled, we went for a walk around our new neighborhood. We both needed a little pick-me-up, and we found +[Hocus Pocus][hocus-pocus], a small nearby cafe selling donuts and pour over coffee. -Despite the rain, we still wanted to get out and explore a bit. We took the -train over to {{< ruby Shinjuku ja >}}新宿{{< /ruby >}} station where I got some -good pictures of the bright lights of Shinjuku in the rain. We got soup curry at -[Dominica][dominica-maps], a hard-to-find spot down an alley and a flight of -stairs, and one of Tess' favorite spots. It was fantastic. She was also excited -to show me some of her favorite spots in Shinjuku 2丁目, Tōkyō's gayborhood, so -we closed out the night with drinks at [Rainbow -Burritos][rainbow-burritos-maps]. +Despite the rain, we still wanted to get out and explore a bit. We took the train over to +{{< ruby Shinjuku ja >}}新宿{{< /ruby >}} station where I got some good pictures of the bright lights of Shinjuku in the +rain. We got soup curry at [Dominica][dominica-maps], a hard-to-find spot down an alley and a flight of stairs, and one +of Tess' favorite spots. It was fantastic. She was also excited to show me some of her favorite spots in Shinjuku 2丁目, +Tōkyō's gayborhood, so we closed out the night with drinks at [Rainbow Burritos][rainbow-burritos-maps]. -### Day 8 +### Day 8: {{% ruby "Hachiko" ja %}}はちこ{{% /ruby %}} -After more than a week in Japan, this was the first that I actually slept until -a reasonable wake up time: 7:00. Imagine! +After more than a week in Japan, this was the first that I actually slept until a reasonable wake up time: 7:00. +Imagine! -Tess and I were up and out reasonably early this morning, and took the train to -Shibuya where we found coffee and toast at a small boutique shop called -[Rec Coffee][rec-coffee]. This place was great. Tess bought some beans to take -home. ☕️ +Tess and I were up and out reasonably early this morning, and took the train to Shibuya where we found coffee and toast +at a small boutique shop called [Rec Coffee][rec-coffee]. This place was great. Tess bought some beans to take home. ☕️ -After coffee, we walked back to Shibuya station to say hello to the goodest good -boy that ever was good, Hachiko. +After coffee, we walked back to Shibuya station to say hello to the goodest good boy that ever was good, Hachiko. {{< photo "2023/shibuya-hachiko" >}} -We crossed the Scramble and spent a while perusing the floors of [Hands][hands], -where we (fortunately; more on that later) bought umbrellas, and then dove into -Harajuku. +We crossed the Scramble and spent a while perusing the floors of [Hands][hands], where we (fortunately; more on that +later) bought umbrellas, and then dove into Harajuku. -We got [souflée pancakes][souflee-pancakes] for lunch at [Rainbow -Pancake][rainbow-pancake] and wandered down Cat Street checking out shops along -the way. +We got [souflée pancakes][souflee-pancakes] for lunch at [Rainbow Pancake][rainbow-pancake] and wandered down Cat Street +checking out shops along the way. -Tess' friend Ray met us at the end of Takeshita-dori as it started to rain. -After a rather intense and very brief rain storm (including some hail and -lightning -- so glad we happend to buy umbrellas earlier!) we sat and chatted at -Blue Bottle, bought some gifts at [Kiddy Land][kiddy-land], and I bought a -yukata at a vintage clothing store called Chicago. +Tess' friend Ray met us at the end of Takeshita-dori as it started to rain. After a surprise, intense rain storm +(including some hail and lightning -- so glad we happend to buy umbrellas earlier!) we sat and chatted at Blue Bottle, +bought some gifts at [KIDDY LAND][kiddy-land], and I bought a yukata at a vintage clothing store called Chicago. -- [Five G][five-g] synth shop -- Seiko Seed -- Meiji-jingu +Ray left us then, and Tess and I continued on. We stopped at [Five G][five-g], a synth shop full of awesome vintage +synthesizers. (More Prophet 5's and Memorymoog's than I've ever seen in one place before.) We took a quick walk through +an adorable watchmaking experience at [Seiko Seed][seiko-seed]. And managed to squeeze in a visit to +[{{< ruby "Meiji-jingū" ja >}}明治神宮{{< /ruby >}}][meiji-jingu] just +before they closed the gates. -We wrapped up our day with dinner at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] and a drink at -[Goodbeer Faucets][goodbeer]. +We wrapped up our day with dinner at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] and a drink at [Goodbeer Faucets][goodbeer]. -### Day 9 +### Day 9: {{% ruby Sensō-ji ja %}}浅草寺{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby "Koishikawa Korakuen" ja %}}小石川後楽園{{% /ruby %}} +In the morning, we took the Ginza line to Tawaramachi and stopped at [Pelican Café][pelican] for toast and coffee. We +stopped at [Hat Coffee][hat-coffee] hoping to indulge in some elaborate latte art, but they were totally booked up, so +we continued on. -### Day 10 +From there we walked up to {{< ruby Kaminarimon ja >}}雷門{{< /ruby >}}, a famous gate with an enormous red lantern in +the middle. You've certainly seen pictures of it. On the other side is a famous street lined with stalls and shops that +leads up to {{< ruby "Sensō-ji" ja >}}浅草寺{{< /ruby >}}. Tess and I stopped for +{{< ruby "strawberry mochi" ja >}}苺大福{{< /ruby >}} and wandered through the throng of tourists up to the shrine. +From there, we walked down {{< ruby Kappabashi ja >}}合羽橋{{< /ruby >}}, a street lined with shops selling kitchenware. +We stopped in a several knife shops, as well as one selling interesting and vintage coffee equipment. -### Day 11 +We got soba for lunch near {{< ruby "Ueno Station" ja >}}上野駅{{< /ruby >}} and then took the train a few stops to +visit a traditional Japanese garden called {{< ruby "Koishikawa Korakuen" ja >}}小石川後楽園{{< /ruby >}} near the Tōkyō +Dome. Afterward, we stopped into [Hop Scotch][hop-scotch] for beer and some gyoza. -### Day 12 +We finished our day at [{{< ruby "Yasai-ya" ja >}}やさいや{{< /ruby >}}][yasaiya] +in {{< ruby Akasaka ja >}}赤坂{{< /ruby >}}. -### Day 13 +### Day 10: The Japanese Sword Museum -### Day 14 +In the morning, Tess and I got breakfast at Ueshima, a small café in Akasaka. It's a simple place with decent toast and +coffee, full of a mix of Tōkyō residents stopping in on their way to work and tourists looking for a familiar breakfast. +She had a few meetings in the morning, so I was on my own for a while. -### Day 15 +I took the train up to {{< ruby "Sumida City" ja >}}都墨田区{{< /ruby >}}, stopping by the {{< ruby "Ryōgoku" +ja >}}両国{{< /ruby >}} Sumo Hall on my way up to the [Japanese Sword Museum][sword-museum]. It's a small museum +situated in the Former Yasuda Garden that highlights the traditional ironworking practice in Japan, especially (though not +exclusively) as it pertains to sword-making. They have a number of beautiful finished swords on display as well. + +After the museum, I stopped for lunch at a nearby sushi restaurant and walked from Asakusa into Akihabara. I did a quick +turn through {{< ruby Yodobashi ja >}}ヨドバシ{{< /ruby >}} to look at cameras, and then hopped on the train to meet +Tess. + +We met in the middle of Shinjuku-Gyōen and wandered the pathways exploring the gardens and the remants of the cherry +blossoms. (We were late for {{< ruby "cherry blossom viewing" ja >}}花見{{< /ruby >}} by just a few weeks, but we've +been able to see a few late bloomers here and there!) + +That evening we met up with our friend Ray for dinner at [GANTZ][gantz] and a quick dring at a _tiny_ but lively lesbian +bar called [Elle Vie][ellevie]. + +- Laundry day (thanks Tess!) + +### Day 11: {{% ruby Kamakura ja %}}鎌倉{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Enoshima ja %}}江の島{{% /ruby %}} + +Tess and I went back to Ueshima for breakfast. This was her first full day back to work, so she caught the train to +Shibuya and I got a train for my day's exploration: {{< ruby Kamakura ja >}}鎌倉{{< /ruby >}} and {{< ruby Enoshima ja +>}}江の島{{< /ruby >}}. + +Kamakura is an old town by the ocean with a number of interesting shrines and temples. I stopped at Amanawa Shinmei +Jinja, a shrine to Amaterasu Ōmikami built in 710, making it the oldest shrine in the city. + +The big draw in Kamakura is [Kōtoku-in][kotoku-in], a Buddhist shrine known for it's Great Buddha statue. It's rare to +see these large statues outside, and to be able to get so close to them. This one even lets you go inside! + +I also visited [Hase-dera][hase-dera] temple situated up in the hills overlooking the ocean. This one is also well known +for it's rows and rows of little Buddha statues. I had lunch in a cafe on the temple grounds, and scored a fantastic +seat right at the window overlooking the bay. + +To get to Enoshima, I took the Enoden line along the coast. Enoshima and it's mainland town remind me of beachtowns back +home. There are little shops selling beachy clothing, sandals, and shells, and snack shacks to get a quick bite. The +island itself is connected to the mainland by a causeway and is home to a cluster of Shinto shrines. It's picturesque +and I enjoyed wandering all over the island. On clear days, Mt. Fuji is a grand presence toward the west. I got a few +pictures of it just barely visible through the afternoon haze. + +I took the train back from Enoshima station to Shibuya where I met up with Tess and her fellow TAG members for dinner at +a yakiniku place in Ebisu. + +### Day 12: {{% ruby Shimokitazawa ja %}}下北沢{{% /ruby %}} + +Tess and I got breakfast at Starbucks under Shibuya Stream. Having gone pretty hard the day before, I decided to take it +easy. I stayed at the Starbucks for a few hours and then I took the train out to Shimokitazawa. + +I got lunch at Soup Curry Cocoro and wandered the neighborhood, exploring the shops and enjoying the vibe. I stopped in +at Jet Set, a cute little record shop hidden on the second floor of a building down the street from my lunch spot, and +[Tsutaya Bookstore][tsutaya]. + +Tess insisted I try [Bear Pond Espresso][bear-pond], so I got an ice latte (which was _fantastic_, by the way) and hung +out for a little while practicing my Japanese and watching people come and go. + +I hopped back on the train to Shibuya to meet the TAG folks for dinner. We had dinner in a place below Shibuya Stream +called [Na Kameno Teppen][na-kameno], and then headed down the street for drinks at [INC][inc], where I had an excellent old +fashioned. + +### Day 13: The Tōkyō National Museum + +We grabbed a quick breakfast at [Cafe Veloce][cafe-veloce] in Shibuya in the morning and then Tess went off to work for +the day. + +I walked from there to a small "coffee bean shop" called [KOFFEE MAMEYA][mameya] in Harajuku. They sell a _bunch_ of +different coffees, organized on a chart they hand you by acidity, roast level, and flavor notes. All the staff are +knowledgeable and can make recommendations based on the flavor profile of coffee that you like. Both of the guys I +talked to spoke very good English too. After a tasty cup of cold brew, I walked out with two bags of beans that I'm +looking forward to roasting at home! + +Coffee Part Two accomplished, I took the train up to Ueno Park to the [Tōkyō National Museum][tnm]. They have a really +cool collection of swords by famous sword smiths throughout Japan's history, some great examples of Japanese pottery, +and tons of calligraphy and Buddhist religious art. I was also impressed with their (admittedly small) collection of +Ainu and Ryukyu artifacts. When I visited they were also running a special exhibit on art from Tōfuku-ji temple in +Kyōto, the site where Zen Buddhism entered Japan for the first time. + +I met Tess and the TAG for dinner that night at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] in Shibuya, and a couple drinks (including +some tasty mocktails for me!) at [Trench][trench]. Their main location was full up so they sent us to their Annex on the +fifth floor of a building around the block. It was a great space with tasty drinks. + +### Day 14: Ginza + +The TAG meeting finished, Tess and I got to spend the day together. We decided to explore Ginza. Tess found [bill's][bills] for breakfast, which is a cool spot on an upper floor of a building nestled between the Ginza locations of several high-end fashion brands. + +- Tōkyō Eki +- Imperial palace grounds +- Hibiya Park + +- The [Seiko museum][seiko-museum] + +- Bic Camera where Tess bought a GS + +- [Centre][centre] for a late lunch: strawberry sandwich! + +- Dinner with [Mike][mike-smith] and [Naoko][nao-smith], Zen, Mui, and Mila at [St. Buffalo][st-buffalo] + +### Day 15: Pride! + +- Breakfast at Rec Coffee (again! finally!) +- Pride festival in Yoyogi park +- Marching in the parade with Rainbow Family +- Coffee at Beasty +- Walk through Shinjuku +- Hanazono jinja +- Donyoku for a snack +- Dorobune for drinks and food with Ray +- Combini katsu sandwich and mochi + +### Day 16 + +- Flying home today [fushimi-inari-torii]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/fushimi-inari-torii" >}} "Fushimi Inari Torii" [kiyomizu-dera-post]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/kiyomizu-dera-pagoda" >}} "Kiyomizu-Dera Pagoda" -[kyoto-handicrafts-center]: # -[tozando]: # -[beerpub-takimuya]: https://maps.apple.com/?address=%E3%80%92604-0836,%20%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%BA%9C%E4%BA%AC%E9%83%BD%E5%B8%82%E4%B8%AD%E4%BA%AC%E5%8C%BA,%20%E8%88%B9%E5%B1%8B%E7%94%BA400&auid=18427312708155676432&ll=35.012182,135.760673&lsp=9902&q=BEER%20PUB%20Takumiya +[kyoto-handicrafts-center]: https://www.kyotohandicraftcenter.com +[tozando]: https://tozandoshop.com +[beerpub-takimuya]: https://www.instagram.com/beerpubtakumiya/ [curio-espress]: https://www.curioespresso.com/our-story/ [7th-gyoza]: https://www.white-gyouza.co.jp/branch/kanazawa.html [new-otani]: https://www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/ @@ -228,6 +317,31 @@ We wrapped up our day with dinner at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] and a drink at [rainbow-pancake]: http://rainbowpancake.net [souflee-pancakes]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/souflee-pancakes" >}} "Souflée Pancakes" [kiddy-land]: https://www.kiddyland.co.jp/ +[seiko-seed]: https://www.seiko-seed.com/tenshairspring/ [five-g]: https://fiveg.net/ -[sushizanmai]: https://tokyocheapo.com/food-and-drink/sushi/cheapo-sushi-sushizanmai/ +[meiji-jingu]: https://www.meijijingu.or.jp +[sushizanmai]: https://www.kiyomura.co.jp [goodbeer]: # +[pelican]: https://pelicancafe.jp +[hat-coffee]: https://www.hatcoffee.jp +[hop-scotch]: https://www.hopscotchtokyo.com +[yasaiya]: https://yasaiya.Tōkyō +[sword-museum]: https://www.touken.or.jp/museum/ +[gantz]: https://www.instagram.com/gantz.shinjuku/ +[ellevie]: https://twitter.com/ellevie_ +[kotoku-in]: https://kotoku-in.jp +[hase-dera]: https://www.hasedera.jp +[bear-pond]: https://www.facebook.com/people/Bear-Pond-Espresso/100063530142240/ +[tsutaya]: https://tsutaya.tsite.jp +[na-kameno]: https://www.mugen-c.jp/store_shibuya-stream.html +[inc]: http://www.bar-inc.co.jp +[cafe-veloce]: https://c-united.co.jp/store/detail/000343/ +[mameya]: https://www.koffee-mameya.com +[tnm]: https://www.tnm.jp/ +[trench]: https://small-axe.net/bar-trench/ +[bills]: https://billsjapan.com/jp +[seiko-museum]: https://museum.seiko.co.jp/en/ +[centre]: https://www.instagram.com/centre_the_bakery/ +[mike-smith]: https://sideshowbarker.net +[nao-smith]: https://twitter.com/naoishikura +[st-buffalo]: https://goo.gl/maps/W75QDhUk63UNxnsq7