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@ -4,75 +4,122 @@ draft: true
date: 2023-01-31T09:28:13-08:00
toc: true
posts: false
resources:
- title: A torii lined path in Fushimi Inari-Taisha
src: fushimi-inari-path.jpg
- name: souflee-pancakes
title: Souflée pancakes at Rainbow Pancakes in Harajuku
src: souflee-pancakes.jpg
- name: tozando
title: Holding a sword I ended up buying at Tozando in Kyōto
src: tozando.jpg
- name: matsusaki-me
src: matsusaki-me.jpg
title: Me, dressed in a yukata, in our room at Matsusaki
- name: matsusaki-onsen
src: matsusaki-onsen.jpg
title: Our private in-room bath at Matsusaki
- name: hocus-pocus
title: A chocolate and raspberry donut at Hocus Pocus
src: hocus-pocus.jpg
- name: yasuda-sword-museum
src: yasuda-sword-museum.jpg
title: The Former Yasuda Garden with the Japanese Sword Museum in the distance
- name: kotokuin-buddha
src: kotokuin.jpg
title: The Great Bronze Buddha at Kotoku-in
- name: fujisan-enoshima
src: fujisan-enoshima.jpg
title: Fuji-san is way off in the distance, just barely visible!
- name: mameya
src: mameya.jpg
title: Koffee Mameya's bean chart and the coffees I bought
- name: strawberry-sando
src: strawberry-sando.jpg
title: A strawberry sandwich at Centre the Bakery
- name: pride
src: pride.jpg
title: Tess and me at Tōkyō Rainbow Pride, both of us smiling
- name: toyokawa
src: toyokawa.jpg
title: Toyokawa Betsuin Inari Shrine, a combination Shinto and Buddhist shrine to Inari
---
At the beginning of April 2023, {{< tess >}} and I traveled to Japan for two
weeks.
At the beginning of April 2023, {{< tess >}} and I traveled to Japan for two weeks. She also [wrote about her
experience][tess-post].
## {{% ruby Kyōto ja %}}京都{{% /ruby %}}
## {{% ruby Kyoto ja %}}京都{{% /ruby %}}
After a twelve hour flight from San Franciso, we landed in Ōsaka around 2:30 in the afternoon on Sunday. We cleared
customs, and headed to the {{< ruby Haruka ja >}}はるか{{< /ruby >}} Express from KIX to Kyōto. After taking a brief
walk around the neighborhood to get our bearings, we found dinner at a tiny izakaya in an alley on the western side of
Kyōto's biggest river, the {{< ruby Kamogawa ja >}}鴨川{{< /ruby >}}.
customs, and headed to the {{< ruby Haruka ja >}}はるか{{< /ruby >}} Express from Ōsaka airport to Kyōto. We took a
brief walk around the neighborhood to get our bearings, and found dinner at a tiny izakaya in an alley on the western
side of Kyōto's biggest river, the {{< ruby Kamogawa ja >}}鴨川{{< /ruby >}}.
### Day 2: {{% ruby "Fushimi Inari-Taisha" ja %}}伏見稲荷大社{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja %}}清水寺{{% /ruby %}}
The next day we were up bright and early -- thanks jet lag! -- and headed to {{< ruby "Fushimi Inari-Taisha" ja >}}
伏見稲荷大社{{< /ruby >}} a Shinto shrine taking up an entire mountain known for its
[sprawling pathways][fushimi-inari-torii] lined with bright vermillion {{< ruby torii ja >}}鳥居{{< /ruby >}}.
伏見稲荷大社{{< /ruby >}} a Shinto shrine covering an entire mountain known for its [sprawling
pathways][fushimi-inari-torii] lined with bright vermillion {{< ruby torii ja >}}鳥居{{< /ruby >}}.
{{< figures/image name="fushimi-inari-path.jpg" >}}
We had lunch with Tess' friend and colleague Florian and his wife Namino at a nearby spot known for its grilled eel.
That afternoon, we walked from our AirBnb up to [{{< ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja >}}清水寺{{< /ruby >}}][kiyomizu-dera-post]
temple, a Buddhist temple in the hills on the east side of Kyōto, then wandered back through Gion and down the arcade
shopping streets in central Kyōto. We ended the night at a newly-opened craft beer bar run by a French man with a
substantial selection of craft beers from all over Japan.
That afternoon, we walked from our AirBnb up to [{{< ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja >}}清水寺{{< /ruby >}}][kiyomizu-dera-post],
a Buddhist temple in the hills on the east side of Kyōto. We wandered back through Gion and down the arcade shopping
streets in central Kyōto.
We ended the night at a newly-opened craft beer bar run by a French man with a substantial selection of craft beers from
all over Japan.
### Day 3: {{% ruby Nara ja %}}奈良{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Kinkaku-ji ja %}}金閣寺{{% /ruby %}}
The third day, we were up early again. We got a quick breakfast at a local place, and hopped on the train to {{< ruby
Nara ja >}}奈良{{< /ruby >}}, the ancient capital city of Japan. Nara's main city park is home to hundreds of wild deer
that tourists can feed with rice crackers bought from stands throughout the park.
The third day, we were up early again. We got a quick breakfast at a local place, and took the train to
{{< ruby Nara ja >}}奈良{{< /ruby >}}, the ancient capital city of Japan. Nara's main city park is home to hundreds of
wild deer that tourists can feed with rice crackers bought from stands throughout the park.
The main draw for us was {{< ruby Tōdai-ji ja >}}東大寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a Buddhist temple in the middle of Nara
Park that houses a truly enormous cast bronze Buddha. After visiting our biggest buddy, we grabbed lunch at a cafe in
Nara and hopped back on the train to Kyōto.
Once we made it back, we took a bus up to {{< ruby Kinkaku-ji ja >}}金閣寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a.k.a. the Golden
Back in Kyōto, we took a bus up to {{< ruby Kinkaku-ji ja >}}金閣寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a.k.a. the Golden
Pavillion.
{{< photo "2023/kinkaku-ji" >}}
We ended the day with a stop at [Beer Pub Takumiya][beerpub-takimuya], staffed by three gregarious and friendly Japanese
guys. We got some much-needed time off our feet and had a good time chatting with them, and the Austrailian guy who sat
next to us. After struggling to find a noodle place, we ended up at a small izakaya in a tiny alley off one of Kyōto's
busy main streets.
next to us.
### Day 4: {{% ruby Sword ja %}}刀{{% /ruby %}}!
Dinner was one of the more challenging of the trip for me. We ended up at a small izakaya in an ally off one of Kyōto's
busy main streets. The menu was all Japanese, and the two guys behind the counter spoke very little English. We ordered
a bunch of things, not really understanding what we were getting. It ended up being pretty tasty, but the difficulty in
understanding the menu compounding with our hunger made it a frustrating experience.
Our fourth and final full day in Kyōto was rainy. We started with a stop at Lorimer Kyōto for a real Japanese breakfast.
The food was fantastic, though we were both a little put off by the constant stream of Christian praise music they had
going. We stopped at Walden Woods for a coffee on the way back to the Airbnb.
### Day 4: {{% ruby Sword ja %}}太刀{{% /ruby %}}!
After collecting a load of laundry we'd left in the machine downstairs, we took the train north a few stops and walked
over to {{< ruby "Heian-jingū" ja >}}平安神宮{{< /ruby >}}. _(Explanation of what this shrine is.)_ Wrapping around the
shrine itself is a beautiful garden filled with native trees and plants, ponds and rivers. It was lovely to wander the
pathways in the light rainfall.
Our fourth and final full day in Kyōto was rainy. We started with a stop at [Lorimer Kyōto][lorimer] for a real Japanese
breakfast. The food was fantastic, though we were both a little put off by the constant Christian praise music they
played. We stopped at [Walden Woods][walden-woods] for a coffee on the way back to the Airbnb.
We walked from there to the [Kyōto Handicrafts Center][kyoto-handicrafts-center], stopped in a place for udon, and took
a bus over to the Imperial Palace in Kyōto-Gyoen. We had hoped to catch an English language tour, but it was canceled
that day, so we took a brochure and wandered the grounds, marveling at the blending of Heian and Edo period
architecture. The grounds have some lovely gardens.
In the afternoon, we visited {{< ruby "Heian-jingū" ja >}}平安神宮{{< /ruby >}}. Wrapping around the shrine itself is a
beautiful garden filled with native trees and plants, ponds and rivers. We wandered the pathways as the rain fell. It
was rather lovely.
On the way to the palace we happened upon [Tozando][tozando] where they sell martial arts gear, including {{< ruby iaitō
ja >}}居合刀{{< /ruby >}} and real {{< ruby nihontō ja >}}日本刀{{< /ruby >}}. One of my goals for this trip was to find
and purchase a sword, and I did!
We walked from there to the [Kyōto Handicrafts Center][kyoto-handicrafts-center], stopped in a neaby place for udon, and
took a bus over to the Imperial Palace in Kyōto-Gyoen. We had hoped to catch an English language tour, but it was
canceled that day, so we took a brochure and wandered the grounds, marveling at the blending of Heian and Edo period
architecture. The grounds have some lovely gardens too.
On the way to the palace we happened upon [Tozando][tozando], a well-known shop selling martial arts gear, including {{<
ruby iaitō ja >}}居合刀{{< /ruby >}} and real {{< ruby nihontō ja >}}日本刀{{< /ruby >}}. One of my goals for this trip
was to buy a sword, and I did! It's an iaitō, a practice sword with a dull edge, with wave patterns on the hand guard,
and fish-shaped charms in the wrapping. I'm really pleased with it.
{{< figures/image name=tozando >}}
After our stop at Tozando, we met our friends Ana, Megumi, and their new baby Sen for dinner at their apartment near
Kyōto University. Ana and Megumi are real foodies and pulled out all the stops for us: two very interesting bottles of
sake, a 60-day dry aged ribeye, and a number of {{< ruby kyo-yasai ja >}} 京野菜{{< /ruby >}}, or locally grown veggies.
sake, a 60-day dry aged ribeye, and a number of {{< ruby kyo-yasai ja >}}京野菜{{< /ruby >}}, or locally grown veggies.
We wrapped it all up with freshly made mochi wrapped in mulberry leaves, and some popcicles.
### Day 5: {{% ruby Thunderbird ja %}}サンダーバード{{% /ruby %}}
@ -84,61 +131,65 @@ Express from Kyōto to Kanazawa.
## {{% ruby Kanazawa ja %}}金沢{{% /ruby %}}
We arrived at our ryokan almost two hours late. They had clearly been waiting for us. We were greeted warmly by the
staff and led to our room where we were given tea and a sweet and educated about how to wear our
{{< ruby yukata ja >}}浴衣{{< /ruby >}} and {{< ruby pajamas ja >}}作務衣{{< /ruby >}} by a very sweet and patient
Japanese lady. We took some time to get settled in our room, bathed, and enjoyed our private onsen bath. Dinner was at
19:00: an elaborate {{< ruby kaiseki ja >}}解析{{< /ruby >}} meal made up of a multitude of small dishes of all
different kinds.
We arrived at our ryokan in the late afternoon. The staff had clearly been waiting for us. They greeted us warmly and
led us to our room where they offered us tea and a sweet. Our [{{< ruby nakai ja >}}仲居{{< /ruby >}}][wp-nakai], a very
sweet and patient Japanese lady, educated us about how to wear our yukata and samue. We took some time to get settled in
our room, bathed, and enjoyed our private onsen bath. Dinner was promptly at 19:00: an elaborate {{< ruby kaiseki ja
>}}解析{{< /ruby >}} meal made up of a multitude of small dishes of all different kinds. After the busy-ness of Kyōto,
it was _so_ nice to have some down time and feel so well taken care of.
### Day 6
{{< figures/image name=matsusaki-me >}}
### Day 6: {{% ruby Kanazawa ja %}}金沢{{% /ruby %}} City
In the morning, our Japanese hostess brought us breakfast. Tess enjoyed the onsen in our room while I explored the
public onsen on the grounds. Our ryokan has three public baths: one large gender-segregated bath downstairs, and two
baths on the roof that swap between men-only and women-only at set times of day.
public onsen on the grounds. Our ryokan had three public baths: one large gender-segregated bath downstairs, and two
baths on the roof that swap between men-only and women-only at set times of day. Amazingly, I had both of the baths I
tried to myself!
At 10 we took a shuttle to Mattō station and a local train to {{< ruby "Kanazawa Station" ja en >}}金沢駅{{< /ruby >}}.
When we arrived in Kanazawa, we walked to [Curio Espresso][curio-espress] for a coffee. (Breakfast didn't include
coffee, and neither Tess nor I are quite able to give that up.) From there we walked to Kanazawa Castle and the {{< ruby
Kenrokuen ja >}} 兼六園{{< /ruby >}} garden.
At 10 we took a shuttle to Mattō station and a local train to Kanazawa Station. In Kanazawa, we found [Curio
Espresso][curio-espress] for a coffee, and walked to Kanazawa Castle and the {{< ruby Kenrokuen ja >}}兼六園{{<
/ruby >}} garden. I really wanted to see a castle on this trip, so this was a particularly exciting day trip for me.
On advice from Ana, we tried to go to [7th Gyoza no Mise][7th-gyoza], but it ended up being too long a wait. From there
we got back on the bus to Kanazawa Eki, got some lunch in the station, and took the local train back to Mattō.
{{< figures/image name=matsusaki-onsen >}}
Back at the ryokan, we had a langorous soak in the onsen and another beautiful and delicious kaiseki meal before turning
in for the night.
### Day 7: {{% ruby Shinkansen ja %}}新幹線{{% /ruby %}}
### Day 7: {{% ruby Shinkansen ja %}}新幹線{{% /ruby %}}, Fast Train Gonna Go Fast
Time to leave the ryokan. In the morning we had breakfast at the ryokan and then got ready to check out by 10:00. We
took the shuttle to Mattō station, and the local train to Kanazawa. There, we bought a pair of tickets for the {{< ruby
shinkansen ja >}}新幹線{{< /ruby >}} to {{< ruby Tōkyō ja >}}東京{{< /ruby >}}.
Time to leave the ryokan. In the morning, we checked out at 10:00 and took the shuttle to the train station. In
Kanazawa, we bought a pair of tickets for the {{< ruby shinkansen ja >}}新幹線{{< /ruby >}} to {{< ruby Tōkyō ja
>}}東京{{< /ruby >}}.
Fast trains gonna go fast.
We arrived in Tōkyō in about 3.5 hours. Fast trains gonna go fast.
## {{% ruby Tōkyō ja %}}東京{{% /ruby %}}
Our train dropped us off at {{< ruby "Tōkyō Station" ja >}}東京駅{{< /ruby >}}, which is _quite_ an introduction to the
hustle of Japan's biggest city. In terms of sheer size and number of people, Tōkyō is on another level from any city
I've been in. We made it successfully to the Uedo line that brought us to a stop near our hotel, the [New
Otani][new-otani].
Our train dropped us off at Tōkyō Station, which is _quite_ an introduction to the hustle of Japan's biggest city. In
terms of sheer geographical size and number of people, Tōkyō is on another level from any other city I've been in. We
wove through the crowds of commuters, found our metro, and ultimately our way to our hotel for the next leg of our trip:
the [New Otani][new-otani].
After we got settled, we went for a walk around our new neighborhood. We both needed a little pick-me-up, and we found
[Hocus Pocus][hocus-pocus], a small nearby cafe selling donuts and pour over coffee.
Despite the rain, we still wanted to get out and explore a bit. We took the train over to
{{< ruby Shinjuku ja >}}新宿{{< /ruby >}} station where I got some good pictures of the bright lights of Shinjuku in the
rain. We got soup curry at [Dominica][dominica-maps], a hard-to-find spot down an alley and a flight of stairs, and one
of Tess' favorite spots. It was fantastic. She was also excited to show me some of her favorite spots in Shinjuku 2丁目,
Tōkyō's gayborhood, so we closed out the night with drinks at [Rainbow Burritos][rainbow-burritos-maps].
{{< figures/image name=hocus-pocus >}}
### Day 8: {{% ruby "Hachiko" ja %}}はちこ{{% /ruby %}}
Despite the rain, we still wanted to get out and explore a bit. We took the train over to {{< ruby Shinjuku ja
>}}新宿{{< /ruby >}} station where I got some good pictures of the bright lights of [Shinjuku in the
rain][shinjuku-night]. We got soup curry at [Dominica][dominica-maps], a hard-to-find spot down an alley and a flight of
stairs, and one of Tess' favorite places to eat when she's in town. It was fantastic. She was also excited to show me
some of her favorite spots in Shinjuku {{< ruby "Ni-chōme" ja >}}2丁目{{< /ruby >}}, Tōkyō's gayborhood, so we closed
out the night with drinks at [Rainbow Burritos][rainbow-burritos-maps].
After more than a week in Japan, this was the first that I actually slept until a reasonable wake up time: 7:00.
### Day 8: {{% ruby "Hachiko" ja %}}ハチ公{{% /ruby %}}
After more than a week in Japan, this was the first night that I actually slept until a reasonable wake up time: 7 am.
Imagine!
Tess and I were up and out reasonably early this morning, and took the train to Shibuya where we found coffee and toast
at a small boutique shop called [Rec Coffee][rec-coffee]. This place was great. Tess bought some beans to take home. ☕️
We took the train to Shibuya where we found coffee and toast at a small boutique shop called [Rec Coffee][rec-coffee].
This place was great. Tess bought some beans to take home too. ☕️
After coffee, we walked back to Shibuya station to say hello to the goodest good boy that ever was good, Hachiko.
@ -147,10 +198,12 @@ After coffee, we walked back to Shibuya station to say hello to the goodest good
We crossed the Scramble and spent a while perusing the floors of [Hands][hands], where we (fortunately; more on that
later) bought umbrellas, and then dove into Harajuku.
We got [souflée pancakes][souflee-pancakes] for lunch at [Rainbow Pancake][rainbow-pancake] and wandered down Cat Street
We got souflée pancakes for lunch at [Rainbow Pancake][rainbow-pancake] and wandered down Cat Street
checking out shops along the way.
Tess' friend Ray met us at the end of Takeshita-dori as it started to rain. After a surprise, intense rain storm
{{< figures/image name=souflee-pancakes >}}
Tess' friend [Ray][ray] met us at the end of Takeshita-dori as it started to rain. After a surprise, intense rain storm
(including some hail and lightning -- so glad we happend to buy umbrellas earlier!) we sat and chatted at Blue Bottle,
bought some gifts at [KIDDY LAND][kiddy-land], and I bought a yukata at a vintage clothing store called Chicago.
@ -162,16 +215,14 @@ before they closed the gates.
We wrapped up our day with dinner at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] and a drink at [Goodbeer Faucets][goodbeer].
### Day 9: {{% ruby Sensō-ji ja %}}浅草寺{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby "Koishikawa Korakuen" ja %}}小石川後楽園{{% /ruby %}}
### Day 9: {{% ruby Sensō-ji ja %}}浅草寺{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby "Koishikawa Koraku-en" ja %}}小石川後楽園{{% /ruby %}}
In the morning, we took the Ginza line to Tawaramachi and stopped at [Pelican Café][pelican] for toast and coffee. We
stopped at [Hat Coffee][hat-coffee] hoping to indulge in some elaborate latte art, but they were totally booked up, so
we continued on.
In the morning, we took the Ginza line to Tawaramachi and stopped at [Pelican Café][pelican] for toast and coffee.
From there we walked up to {{< ruby Kaminarimon ja >}}雷門{{< /ruby >}}, a famous gate with an enormous red lantern in
the middle. You've certainly seen pictures of it. On the other side is a famous street lined with stalls and shops that
leads up to {{< ruby "Sensō-ji" ja >}}浅草寺{{< /ruby >}}. Tess and I stopped for
{{< ruby "strawberry mochi" ja >}}苺大福{{< /ruby >}} and wandered through the throng of tourists up to the shrine.
From there we walked up to {{<ruby Kaminarimon ja>}}雷門{{</ruby>}}, a famous gate with an enormous red lantern in the
middle. On the other side is a street lined with stalls and shops that leads up to {{<ruby "Sensō-ji"
ja>}}浅草寺{{</ruby>}}. We got a {{<ruby "strawberry mochi" ja>}}苺大福{{</ruby>}} from one of the vendors and wandered
through the throng of tourists up to the temple.
From there, we walked down {{< ruby Kappabashi ja >}}合羽橋{{< /ruby >}}, a street lined with shops selling kitchenware.
We stopped in a several knife shops, as well as one selling interesting and vintage coffee equipment.
@ -180,20 +231,22 @@ We got soba for lunch near {{< ruby "Ueno Station" ja >}}上野駅{{< /ruby >}}
visit a traditional Japanese garden called {{< ruby "Koishikawa Korakuen" ja >}}小石川後楽園{{< /ruby >}} near the Tōkyō
Dome. Afterward, we stopped into [Hop Scotch][hop-scotch] for beer and some gyoza.
We finished our day at [{{< ruby "Yasai-ya" ja >}}やさいや{{< /ruby >}}][yasaiya]
in {{< ruby Akasaka ja >}}赤坂{{< /ruby >}}.
We finished our day at [{{< ruby "Yasai-ya" ja >}}やさいや{{< /ruby >}}][yasaiya] in {{<ruby Akasaka
ja>}}赤坂{{</ruby>}}.
### Day 10: The Japanese Sword Museum
In the morning, Tess and I got breakfast at Ueshima, a small café in Akasaka. It's a simple place with decent toast and
coffee, full of a mix of Tōkyō residents stopping in on their way to work and tourists looking for a familiar breakfast.
coffee. It sees a mix of Tōkyō residents stopping in on their way to work and tourists looking for a familiar breakfast.
She had a few meetings in the morning, so I was on my own for a while.
I took the train up to {{< ruby "Sumida City" ja >}}都墨田区{{< /ruby >}}, stopping by the {{< ruby "Ryōgoku"
ja >}}両国{{< /ruby >}} Sumo Hall on my way up to the [Japanese Sword Museum][sword-museum]. It's a small museum
situated in the Former Yasuda Garden that highlights the traditional ironworking practice in Japan, especially (though not
I took the train up to {{< ruby "Sumida City" ja >}}都墨田区{{< /ruby >}}, stopping by the {{< ruby "Ryōgoku" ja
>}}両国{{< /ruby >}} Sumo Hall on my way up to the [Japanese Sword Museum][sword-museum]. It's a small museum situated
in the Former Yasuda Garden that highlights the traditional ironworking practice in Japan, especially (though not
exclusively) as it pertains to sword-making. They have a number of beautiful finished swords on display as well.
{{< figures/image name=yasuda-sword-museum >}}
After the museum, I stopped for lunch at a nearby sushi restaurant and walked from Asakusa into Akihabara. I did a quick
turn through {{< ruby Yodobashi ja >}}ヨドバシ{{< /ruby >}} to look at cameras, and then hopped on the train to meet
Tess.
@ -202,11 +255,9 @@ We met in the middle of Shinjuku-Gyōen and wandered the pathways exploring the
blossoms. (We were late for {{< ruby "cherry blossom viewing" ja >}}花見{{< /ruby >}} by just a few weeks, but we've
been able to see a few late bloomers here and there!)
That evening we met up with our friend Ray for dinner at [GANTZ][gantz] and a quick dring at a _tiny_ but lively lesbian
That evening we met up with our friend Ray for dinner at [GANTZ][gantz] and a quick drink at a _tiny_ but lively lesbian
bar called [Elle Vie][ellevie].
- Laundry day (thanks Tess!)
### Day 11: {{% ruby Kamakura ja %}}鎌倉{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Enoshima ja %}}江の島{{% /ruby %}}
Tess and I went back to Ueshima for breakfast. This was her first full day back to work, so she caught the train to
@ -216,18 +267,25 @@ Shibuya and I got a train for my day's exploration: {{< ruby Kamakura ja >}}鎌
Kamakura is an old town by the ocean with a number of interesting shrines and temples. I stopped at Amanawa Shinmei
Jinja, a shrine to Amaterasu Ōmikami built in 710, making it the oldest shrine in the city.
The big draw in Kamakura is [Kōtoku-in][kotoku-in], a Buddhist shrine known for it's Great Buddha statue. It's rare to
see these large statues outside, and to be able to get so close to them. This one even lets you go inside!
The big draw in Kamakura is [{{< ruby Kōtoku-in ja >}}高徳院{{< /ruby >}}][kotoku-in], a Buddhist shrine known for it's
Great Buddha statue. It's rare to see these large statues outside, and to be able to get so close to them. This one even
lets you go inside!
I also visited [Hase-dera][hase-dera] temple situated up in the hills overlooking the ocean. This one is also well known
for it's rows and rows of little Buddha statues. I had lunch in a cafe on the temple grounds, and scored a fantastic
seat right at the window overlooking the bay.
{{< figures/image name=kotokuin-buddha >}}
I also visited [{{< ruby Hase-dera ja >}}長谷寺{{< /ruby >}}][hase-dera] temple situated up in the hills overlooking the
ocean. This one is also well known for it's rows and rows of little Buddha statues. I had lunch in a cafe on the temple
grounds, and scored a fantastic seat right at the window overlooking the bay.
{{< photo "/2023/zen-garden-at-hase-dera-in-kamakura" >}}
To get to Enoshima, I took the Enoden line along the coast. Enoshima and it's mainland town remind me of beachtowns back
home. There are little shops selling beachy clothing, sandals, and shells, and snack shacks to get a quick bite. The
island itself is connected to the mainland by a causeway and is home to a cluster of Shinto shrines. It's picturesque
and I enjoyed wandering all over the island. On clear days, Mt. Fuji is a grand presence toward the west. I got a few
pictures of it just barely visible through the afternoon haze.
and apart from the humidity, I enjoyed wandering all over the island. On clear days, Mt. Fuji is a grand presence toward
the west. I got a few pictures of it just barely visible through the afternoon haze.
{{< figures/image name=fujisan-enoshima >}}
I took the train back from Enoshima station to Shibuya where I met up with Tess and her fellow TAG members for dinner at
a yakiniku place in Ebisu.
@ -254,68 +312,110 @@ We grabbed a quick breakfast at [Cafe Veloce][cafe-veloce] in Shibuya in the mor
the day.
I walked from there to a small "coffee bean shop" called [KOFFEE MAMEYA][mameya] in Harajuku. They sell a _bunch_ of
different coffees, organized on a chart they hand you by acidity, roast level, and flavor notes. All the staff are
knowledgeable and can make recommendations based on the flavor profile of coffee that you like. Both of the guys I
talked to spoke very good English too. After a tasty cup of cold brew, I walked out with two bags of beans that I'm
looking forward to roasting at home!
different coffees. When I walked in, I was greeted by one of the staff who talked me through a chart showing all their
beans, organized by acidity, roast level, and flavor notes. He helped me choose one that met my preferences and then
directly me to a counter. Both of the guys I talked to were knowledgeable and made good recommendations based on my
flavor preferences. They spoke very good English too! After a tasty cup of cold brew, I walked out with two bags of
beans that I'm looking forward to roasting at home.
{{< figures/image name=mameya >}}
Coffee Part Two accomplished, I took the train up to Ueno Park to the [Tōkyō National Museum][tnm]. They have a really
cool collection of swords by famous sword smiths throughout Japan's history, some great examples of Japanese pottery,
and tons of calligraphy and Buddhist religious art. I was also impressed with their (admittedly small) collection of
Ainu and Ryukyu artifacts. When I visited they were also running a special exhibit on art from Tōfuku-ji temple in
and tons of calligraphy and Buddhist religious art. I also appreciated their collection of Ainu and Ryukyu artifacts.
They were also running a special exhibit on art from [{{< ruby Tōfuku-ji ja >}}東福寺{{< /ruby >}}][tofukuji] temple in
Kyōto, the site where Zen Buddhism entered Japan for the first time.
I met Tess and the TAG for dinner that night at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] in Shibuya, and a couple drinks (including
some tasty mocktails for me!) at [Trench][trench]. Their main location was full up so they sent us to their Annex on the
fifth floor of a building around the block. It was a great space with tasty drinks.
I met Tess and the TAG folks for dinner that night at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] in Shibuya, and a couple drinks
(including some tasty mocktails for me!) at [Trench][trench]. Their main location was full up so they sent us to their
Annex on the fifth floor of a building around the block. It was a great space with tasty drinks.
### Day 14: Ginza
### Day 14: {{% ruby Ginza ja %}}銀座{{% /ruby %}}
The TAG meeting finished, Tess and I got to spend the day together. We decided to explore Ginza. Tess found [bill's][bills] for breakfast, which is a cool spot on an upper floor of a building nestled between the Ginza locations of several high-end fashion brands.
The TAG meeting finished, Tess and I got to spend the day together. We decided to explore Ginza. Tess found
[bill's][bills] for breakfast, which is a cool spot on an upper floor of a building nestled between the Ginza locations
of several high-end fashion brands.
- Tōkyō Eki
- Imperial palace grounds
- Hibiya Park
We wandered through Ginza, looking in the windows of all the high-end designer shops. Along the way we stopped into a
Bic Camera, where Tess _finally_ found the watch of her dreams: a [Grand Seiko SBGM221][sbgm221].
- The [Seiko museum][seiko-museum]
Eventually we came to {{% ruby "Tōkyō Station" ja %}}東京駅{{% /ruby %}}, an incredible red brick building built during
the Meiji Era as part of Japan's moderization effort at that time.
- Bic Camera where Tess bought a GS
The Imperial palace grounds were a straight shot vaguely eastward. We took a few photos of the few buildings and bridges
we could see, but honestly there isn't much.
- [Centre][centre] for a late lunch: strawberry sandwich!
We wandered through Hibiya Park, a nearby Western-style garden, and back into Ginza to visit the [Seiko
museum][seiko-museum]. Tess had been wanting to go on this trip. It's an interesting exhibit of the history of Seiko, a
company that has had a huge impact on the modern history of watches and watchmaking. I enjoyed seeing all the different
timepieces they've made over the more than 120 years since its founding.
- Dinner with [Mike][mike-smith] and [Naoko][nao-smith], Zen, Mui, and Mila at [St. Buffalo][st-buffalo]
We stopped at [Centre][centre] for a late lunch, and to fulfill another one of my goals for this trip: to have a
strawberry and cream sandwich. It's exactly as amazing as it sounds and exceeded all my expectations. Yummm.
### Day 15: Pride!
{{< figures/image name=strawberry-sando >}}
- Breakfast at Rec Coffee (again! finally!)
- Pride festival in Yoyogi park
- Marching in the parade with Rainbow Family
- Coffee at Beasty
- Walk through Shinjuku
- Hanazono jinja
- Donyoku for a snack
- Dorobune for drinks and food with Ray
- Combini katsu sandwich and mochi
We met [Mike][mike-smith] and [Naoko][nao-smith] Smith, and their kids Zen, Mui, and Mila, that evening for some cozy
hangout time at their home -- Zen and I went a few rounds of Smash Brothers and Mario Kart on their Switch -- and dinner
at [St. Buffalo][st-buffalo] in Shinjuku.
### Day 16
### Day 15: Tōkyō Rainbow Pride! 🏳️‍🌈🏳️‍⚧️
- Flying home today
Our last full day in Japan was a fun one. We _finally_ got back to [Rec Coffee][rec-coffee] for breakfast: yummy coffee
and honey butter toast.
From there we walked to Yoyogi Park for Tōkyō Rainbow Pride. Tess' friend [Mamiko][mamiko] and her partner Satoko
invited us to march in the parade with their [{{< ruby "Rainbow Family" ja >}}にじいろ家族{{< /ruby >}}][nijiiro-kazoku]
contingent. Tess and I both had a great time marching and taking in the celebrations. It's so _so_ great to see queer
people of all kinds in community together, and it feels good to be a part of that. I'm really grateful to Mamiko and
Satoko for their invitation.
{{< figures/image name=pride >}}
After the parade, we grabbed a coffee (and a welcome rest for our tired feet) at [Beasty][beasty]. We took a walk
through Shinjuku, stopping at a few shops, and taking a moment at
[{{% ruby Hanazono-jinja ja %}}花園神社{{% /ruby %}}][hanazono] to say hello to the local kami and Inari-Ōkami.
We stopped in at {{< ruby Donyoku ja >}}どんよく{{< /ruby >}} for another little snack and some tea, then wandered down
the hall for some drinks and food at {{< ruby Dorobune ja >}}どろぶね{{< /ruby >}} with Ray.
Feeling a little light on food, we stopped at a {{< ruby Kombini ja >}}コンビニ{{< /ruby >}} near our hotel for some
katsu sandwiches and ice cream mochi before turning in for the night.
### Day 16: Returning Home
Last day. We were up early to get everything packed up. We grabbed brekkie at Byron Bay Coffee, then took
a walk over to Toyokawa Inari Tōkyō Betsuin, a shrine near our hotel dedicated to Inari that combines the Shinto and
Buddhist traditions on one site. It was full of shrines to various aspects of Inari, including some Buddhist images.
{{< figures/image name=toyokawa >}}
We got notified that our flight was delayed, so we unexpectedly had a few more hours to spend. We got lunch at a quick,
greasy ramen place in Akasaka, paying for our meal at a machine at the door and sitting at the counter with the the
other office workers dropping in for a quick lunch.
We were off to the airport not long after that, and eight and a half hours later we landed in SFO.
[tess-post]: https://tess.oconnor.cx/2023/04/japan
[fushimi-inari-torii]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/fushimi-inari-torii" >}} "Fushimi Inari Torii"
[kiyomizu-dera-post]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/kiyomizu-dera-pagoda" >}} "Kiyomizu-Dera Pagoda"
[kyoto-handicrafts-center]: https://www.kyotohandicraftcenter.com
[tozando]: https://tozandoshop.com
[beerpub-takimuya]: https://www.instagram.com/beerpubtakumiya/
[lorimer]: https://tabelog.com/kyoto/A2601/A260201/26030947/
[walden-woods]: http://www.walden-woods.com
[curio-espress]: https://www.curioespresso.com/our-story/
[wp-nakai]: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nakai_(vocation)
[7th-gyoza]: https://www.white-gyouza.co.jp/branch/kanazawa.html
[new-otani]: https://www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/
[hocus-pocus]: https://hocuspocus.jp/
[shinjuku-night]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/shinjuku-night" >}} "Shijuku at Night"
[dominica-maps]: https://goo.gl/maps/spLdi6JwYfcFPdmY8
[rainbow-burritos-maps]: https://goo.gl/maps/p3wx1Rs3yXVmPaU76
[rec-coffee]: https://rec-coffee.com/pages/shibuyahigashi
[hands]: https://info.hands.net/
[rainbow-pancake]: http://rainbowpancake.net
[souflee-pancakes]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/souflee-pancakes" >}} "Souflée Pancakes"
[ray]: https://www.instagram.com/rayyoshida/
[kiddy-land]: https://www.kiddyland.co.jp/
[seiko-seed]: https://www.seiko-seed.com/tenshairspring/
[five-g]: https://fiveg.net/
@ -338,10 +438,17 @@ The TAG meeting finished, Tess and I got to spend the day together. We decided t
[cafe-veloce]: https://c-united.co.jp/store/detail/000343/
[mameya]: https://www.koffee-mameya.com
[tnm]: https://www.tnm.jp/
[tofukuji]: https://kyoto.travel/en/shrine_temple/182.html
[trench]: https://small-axe.net/bar-trench/
[bills]: https://billsjapan.com/jp
[sbgm221]: https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/collections/sbgm221g
[seiko-museum]: https://museum.seiko.co.jp/en/
[centre]: https://www.instagram.com/centre_the_bakery/
[mike-smith]: https://sideshowbarker.net
[nao-smith]: https://twitter.com/naoishikura
[st-buffalo]: https://goo.gl/maps/W75QDhUk63UNxnsq7
[mamiko]: https://www.tokyoupdates.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/en/post-905/
[nijiiro-kazoku]: https://queerfamily.jimdofree.com/にじいろかぞくとは/
[beasty]: http://beastycoffee.com
[hanazono]: http://hanazono-jinja.or.jp
[donyoku]: https://www.timeout.com/tokyo/lgbtq/footbath-cafe-bar-donyoku

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