erynwells.me/content/series/2023-japan/_index.md

title	draft	date	toc	posts
Traveling to 日本	true	2023-01-31T09:28:13-08:00	true	false

At the beginning of April 2023, {{< tess >}} and I traveled to Japan for two weeks.

{{% ruby Kyōto ja %}}京都{{% /ruby %}}

After a twelve hour flight from San Franciso, we landed in Ōsaka around 2:30 in the afternoon on Sunday. We cleared customs, and headed to the {{< ruby Haruka ja >}}はるか{{< /ruby >}} Express from KIX to Kyōto. After taking a brief walk around the neighborhood to get our bearings, we found dinner at a tiny izakaya in an alley on the western side of Kyōto's biggest river, the {{< ruby Kamogawa ja >}}鴨川{{< /ruby >}}.

Day 2: {{% ruby "Fushimi Inari-Taisha" ja %}}伏見稲荷大社{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja %}}清水寺{{% /ruby %}}

The next day we were up bright and early -- thanks jet lag! -- and headed to {{< ruby "Fushimi Inari-Taisha" ja >}} 伏見稲荷大社{{< /ruby >}} a Shinto shrine taking up an entire mountain known for its [sprawling pathways][fushimi-inari-torii] lined with bright vermillion {{< ruby torii ja >}}鳥居{{< /ruby >}}.

{{< figures/image name="fushimi-inari-path.jpg" >}}

We had lunch with Tess' friend and colleague Florian and his wife Namino at a nearby spot known for its grilled eel. That afternoon, we walked from our AirBnb up to [{{< ruby Kiyomizu-dera ja >}}清水寺{{< /ruby >}}][kiyomizu-dera-post] temple, a Buddhist temple in the hills on the east side of Kyōto, then wandered back through Gion and down the arcade shopping streets in central Kyōto. We ended the night at a newly-opened craft beer bar run by a French man with a substantial selection of craft beers from all over Japan.

Day 3: {{% ruby Nara ja %}}奈良{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Kinkaku-ji ja %}}金閣寺{{% /ruby %}}

The third day, we were up early again. We got a quick breakfast at a local place, and hopped on the train to {{< ruby Nara ja >}}奈良{{< /ruby >}}, the ancient capital city of Japan. Nara's main city park is home to hundreds of wild deer that tourists can feed with rice crackers bought from stands throughout the park.

The main draw for us was {{< ruby Tōdai-ji ja >}}東大寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a Buddhist temple in the middle of Nara Park that houses a truly enormous cast bronze Buddha. After visiting our biggest buddy, we grabbed lunch at a cafe in Nara and hopped back on the train to Kyōto.

Once we made it back, we took a bus up to {{< ruby Kinkaku-ji ja >}}金閣寺{{< /ruby >}} temple, a.k.a. the Golden Pavillion.

{{< photo "2023/kinkaku-ji" >}}

We ended the day with a stop at [Beer Pub Takumiya][beerpub-takimuya], staffed by three gregarious and friendly Japanese guys. We got some much-needed time off our feet and had a good time chatting with them, and the Austrailian guy who sat next to us. After struggling to find a noodle place, we ended up at a small izakaya in a tiny alley off one of Kyōto's busy main streets.

Day 4: {{% ruby Sword ja %}}刀{{% /ruby %}}!

Our fourth and final full day in Kyōto was rainy. We started with a stop at Lorimer Kyōto for a real Japanese breakfast. The food was fantastic, though we were both a little put off by the constant stream of Christian praise music they had going. We stopped at Walden Woods for a coffee on the way back to the Airbnb.

After collecting a load of laundry we'd left in the machine downstairs, we took the train north a few stops and walked over to {{< ruby "Heian-jingū" ja >}}平安神宮{{< /ruby >}}. (Explanation of what this shrine is.) Wrapping around the shrine itself is a beautiful garden filled with native trees and plants, ponds and rivers. It was lovely to wander the pathways in the light rainfall.

We walked from there to the [Kyōto Handicrafts Center][kyoto-handicrafts-center], stopped in a place for udon, and took a bus over to the Imperial Palace in Kyōto-Gyoen. We had hoped to catch an English language tour, but it was canceled that day, so we took a brochure and wandered the grounds, marveling at the blending of Heian and Edo period architecture. The grounds have some lovely gardens.

On the way to the palace we happened upon [Tozando][tozando] where they sell martial arts gear, including {{< ruby iaitō ja >}}居合刀{{< /ruby >}} and real {{< ruby nihontō ja >}}日本刀{{< /ruby >}}. One of my goals for this trip was to find and purchase a sword, and I did!

After our stop at Tozando, we met our friends Ana, Megumi, and their new baby Sen for dinner at their apartment near Kyōto University. Ana and Megumi are real foodies and pulled out all the stops for us: two very interesting bottles of sake, a 60-day dry aged ribeye, and a number of {{< ruby kyo-yasai ja >}} 京野菜{{< /ruby >}}, or locally grown veggies. We wrapped it all up with freshly made mochi wrapped in mulberry leaves, and some popcicles.

Day 5: {{% ruby Thunderbird ja %}}サンダーバード{{% /ruby %}}

Thursday was a travel day. We had breakfast and coffee in the morning, then packed up and checked out of our AirBnb. With a few hours to go until our train to {{< ruby Kanazawa jp >}}金沢{{< /ruby >}}, we did some shopping and wrote some postcards. After a quick bowl of ramen for lunch, we caught the {{< ruby Thunderbird ja >}}サンダーバード{{< /ruby >}} Express from Kyōto to Kanazawa.

{{% ruby Kanazawa ja %}}金沢{{% /ruby %}}

We arrived at our ryokan almost two hours late. They had clearly been waiting for us. We were greeted warmly by the staff and led to our room where we were given tea and a sweet and educated about how to wear our {{< ruby yukata ja >}}浴衣{{< /ruby >}} and {{< ruby pajamas ja >}}作務衣{{< /ruby >}} by a very sweet and patient Japanese lady. We took some time to get settled in our room, bathed, and enjoyed our private onsen bath. Dinner was at 19:00: an elaborate {{< ruby kaiseki ja >}}解析{{< /ruby >}} meal made up of a multitude of small dishes of all different kinds.

Day 6

In the morning, our Japanese hostess brought us breakfast. Tess enjoyed the onsen in our room while I explored the public onsen on the grounds. Our ryokan has three public baths: one large gender-segregated bath downstairs, and two baths on the roof that swap between men-only and women-only at set times of day.

At 10 we took a shuttle to Mattō station and a local train to {{< ruby "Kanazawa Station" ja en >}}金沢駅{{< /ruby >}}. When we arrived in Kanazawa, we walked to [Curio Espresso][curio-espress] for a coffee. (Breakfast didn't include coffee, and neither Tess nor I are quite able to give that up.) From there we walked to Kanazawa Castle and the {{< ruby Kenrokuen ja >}} 兼六園{{< /ruby >}} garden.

On advice from Ana, we tried to go to [7th Gyoza no Mise][7th-gyoza], but it ended up being too long a wait. From there we got back on the bus to Kanazawa Eki, got some lunch in the station, and took the local train back to Mattō.

Back at the ryokan, we had a langorous soak in the onsen and another beautiful and delicious kaiseki meal before turning in for the night.

Day 7: {{% ruby Shinkansen ja %}}新幹線{{% /ruby %}}

Time to leave the ryokan. In the morning we had breakfast at the ryokan and then got ready to check out by 10:00. We took the shuttle to Mattō station, and the local train to Kanazawa. There, we bought a pair of tickets for the {{< ruby shinkansen ja >}}新幹線{{< /ruby >}} to {{< ruby Tōkyō ja >}}東京{{< /ruby >}}.

Fast trains gonna go fast.

{{% ruby Tōkyō ja %}}東京{{% /ruby %}}

Our train dropped us off at {{< ruby "Tōkyō Station" ja >}}東京駅{{< /ruby >}}, which is quite an introduction to the hustle of Japan's biggest city. In terms of sheer size and number of people, Tōkyō is on another level from any city I've been in. We made it successfully to the Uedo line that brought us to a stop near our hotel, the [New Otani][new-otani].

After we got settled, we went for a walk around our new neighborhood. We both needed a little pick-me-up, and we found [Hocus Pocus][hocus-pocus], a small nearby cafe selling donuts and pour over coffee.

Despite the rain, we still wanted to get out and explore a bit. We took the train over to {{< ruby Shinjuku ja >}}新宿{{< /ruby >}} station where I got some good pictures of the bright lights of Shinjuku in the rain. We got soup curry at [Dominica][dominica-maps], a hard-to-find spot down an alley and a flight of stairs, and one of Tess' favorite spots. It was fantastic. She was also excited to show me some of her favorite spots in Shinjuku 2丁目, Tōkyō's gayborhood, so we closed out the night with drinks at [Rainbow Burritos][rainbow-burritos-maps].

Day 8: {{% ruby "Hachiko" ja %}}はちこ{{% /ruby %}}

After more than a week in Japan, this was the first that I actually slept until a reasonable wake up time: 7:00. Imagine!

Tess and I were up and out reasonably early this morning, and took the train to Shibuya where we found coffee and toast at a small boutique shop called [Rec Coffee][rec-coffee]. This place was great. Tess bought some beans to take home. ☕️

After coffee, we walked back to Shibuya station to say hello to the goodest good boy that ever was good, Hachiko.

{{< photo "2023/shibuya-hachiko" >}}

We crossed the Scramble and spent a while perusing the floors of [Hands][hands], where we (fortunately; more on that later) bought umbrellas, and then dove into Harajuku.

We got [souflée pancakes][souflee-pancakes] for lunch at [Rainbow Pancake][rainbow-pancake] and wandered down Cat Street checking out shops along the way.

Tess' friend Ray met us at the end of Takeshita-dori as it started to rain. After a surprise, intense rain storm (including some hail and lightning -- so glad we happend to buy umbrellas earlier!) we sat and chatted at Blue Bottle, bought some gifts at [KIDDY LAND][kiddy-land], and I bought a yukata at a vintage clothing store called Chicago.

Ray left us then, and Tess and I continued on. We stopped at [Five G][five-g], a synth shop full of awesome vintage synthesizers. (More Prophet 5's and Memorymoog's than I've ever seen in one place before.) We took a quick walk through an adorable watchmaking experience at [Seiko Seed][seiko-seed]. And managed to squeeze in a visit to [{{< ruby "Meiji-jingū" ja >}}明治神宮{{< /ruby >}}][meiji-jingu] just before they closed the gates.

We wrapped up our day with dinner at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] and a drink at [Goodbeer Faucets][goodbeer].

Day 9: {{% ruby Sensō-ji ja %}}浅草寺{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby "Koishikawa Korakuen" ja %}}小石川後楽園{{% /ruby %}}

In the morning, we took the Ginza line to Tawaramachi and stopped at [Pelican Café][pelican] for toast and coffee. We stopped at [Hat Coffee][hat-coffee] hoping to indulge in some elaborate latte art, but they were totally booked up, so we continued on.

From there we walked up to {{< ruby Kaminarimon ja >}}雷門{{< /ruby >}}, a famous gate with an enormous red lantern in the middle. You've certainly seen pictures of it. On the other side is a famous street lined with stalls and shops that leads up to {{< ruby "Sensō-ji" ja >}}浅草寺{{< /ruby >}}. Tess and I stopped for {{< ruby "strawberry mochi" ja >}}苺大福{{< /ruby >}} and wandered through the throng of tourists up to the shrine.

From there, we walked down {{< ruby Kappabashi ja >}}合羽橋{{< /ruby >}}, a street lined with shops selling kitchenware. We stopped in a several knife shops, as well as one selling interesting and vintage coffee equipment.

We got soba for lunch near {{< ruby "Ueno Station" ja >}}上野駅{{< /ruby >}} and then took the train a few stops to visit a traditional Japanese garden called {{< ruby "Koishikawa Korakuen" ja >}}小石川後楽園{{< /ruby >}} near the Tōkyō Dome. Afterward, we stopped into [Hop Scotch][hop-scotch] for beer and some gyoza.

We finished our day at [{{< ruby "Yasai-ya" ja >}}やさいや{{< /ruby >}}][yasaiya] in {{< ruby Akasaka ja >}}赤坂{{< /ruby >}}.

Day 10: The Japanese Sword Museum

In the morning, Tess and I got breakfast at Ueshima, a small café in Akasaka. It's a simple place with decent toast and coffee, full of a mix of Tōkyō residents stopping in on their way to work and tourists looking for a familiar breakfast. She had a few meetings in the morning, so I was on my own for a while.

I took the train up to {{< ruby "Sumida City" ja >}}都墨田区{{< /ruby >}}, stopping by the {{< ruby "Ryōgoku" ja >}}両国{{< /ruby >}} Sumo Hall on my way up to the [Japanese Sword Museum][sword-museum]. It's a small museum situated in the Former Yasuda Garden that highlights the traditional ironworking practice in Japan, especially (though not exclusively) as it pertains to sword-making. They have a number of beautiful finished swords on display as well.

After the museum, I stopped for lunch at a nearby sushi restaurant and walked from Asakusa into Akihabara. I did a quick turn through {{< ruby Yodobashi ja >}}ヨドバシ{{< /ruby >}} to look at cameras, and then hopped on the train to meet Tess.

We met in the middle of Shinjuku-Gyōen and wandered the pathways exploring the gardens and the remants of the cherry blossoms. (We were late for {{< ruby "cherry blossom viewing" ja >}}花見{{< /ruby >}} by just a few weeks, but we've been able to see a few late bloomers here and there!)

That evening we met up with our friend Ray for dinner at [GANTZ][gantz] and a quick dring at a tiny but lively lesbian bar called [Elle Vie][ellevie].

• Laundry day (thanks Tess!)

Day 11: {{% ruby Kamakura ja %}}鎌倉{{% /ruby %}} and {{% ruby Enoshima ja %}}江の島{{% /ruby %}}

Tess and I went back to Ueshima for breakfast. This was her first full day back to work, so she caught the train to Shibuya and I got a train for my day's exploration: {{< ruby Kamakura ja >}}鎌倉{{< /ruby >}} and {{< ruby Enoshima ja

}}江の島{{< /ruby >}}.

Kamakura is an old town by the ocean with a number of interesting shrines and temples. I stopped at Amanawa Shinmei Jinja, a shrine to Amaterasu Ōmikami built in 710, making it the oldest shrine in the city.

The big draw in Kamakura is [Kōtoku-in][kotoku-in], a Buddhist shrine known for it's Great Buddha statue. It's rare to see these large statues outside, and to be able to get so close to them. This one even lets you go inside!

I also visited [Hase-dera][hase-dera] temple situated up in the hills overlooking the ocean. This one is also well known for it's rows and rows of little Buddha statues. I had lunch in a cafe on the temple grounds, and scored a fantastic seat right at the window overlooking the bay.

To get to Enoshima, I took the Enoden line along the coast. Enoshima and it's mainland town remind me of beachtowns back home. There are little shops selling beachy clothing, sandals, and shells, and snack shacks to get a quick bite. The island itself is connected to the mainland by a causeway and is home to a cluster of Shinto shrines. It's picturesque and I enjoyed wandering all over the island. On clear days, Mt. Fuji is a grand presence toward the west. I got a few pictures of it just barely visible through the afternoon haze.

I took the train back from Enoshima station to Shibuya where I met up with Tess and her fellow TAG members for dinner at a yakiniku place in Ebisu.

Day 12: {{% ruby Shimokitazawa ja %}}下北沢{{% /ruby %}}

Tess and I got breakfast at Starbucks under Shibuya Stream. Having gone pretty hard the day before, I decided to take it easy. I stayed at the Starbucks for a few hours and then I took the train out to Shimokitazawa.

I got lunch at Soup Curry Cocoro and wandered the neighborhood, exploring the shops and enjoying the vibe. I stopped in at Jet Set, a cute little record shop hidden on the second floor of a building down the street from my lunch spot, and [Tsutaya Bookstore][tsutaya].

Tess insisted I try [Bear Pond Espresso][bear-pond], so I got an ice latte (which was fantastic, by the way) and hung out for a little while practicing my Japanese and watching people come and go.

I hopped back on the train to Shibuya to meet the TAG folks for dinner. We had dinner in a place below Shibuya Stream called [Na Kameno Teppen][na-kameno], and then headed down the street for drinks at [INC][inc], where I had an excellent old fashioned.

Day 13: The Tōkyō National Museum

We grabbed a quick breakfast at [Cafe Veloce][cafe-veloce] in Shibuya in the morning and then Tess went off to work for the day.

I walked from there to a small "coffee bean shop" called [KOFFEE MAMEYA][mameya] in Harajuku. They sell a bunch of different coffees, organized on a chart they hand you by acidity, roast level, and flavor notes. All the staff are knowledgeable and can make recommendations based on the flavor profile of coffee that you like. Both of the guys I talked to spoke very good English too. After a tasty cup of cold brew, I walked out with two bags of beans that I'm looking forward to roasting at home!

Coffee Part Two accomplished, I took the train up to Ueno Park to the [Tōkyō National Museum][tnm]. They have a really cool collection of swords by famous sword smiths throughout Japan's history, some great examples of Japanese pottery, and tons of calligraphy and Buddhist religious art. I was also impressed with their (admittedly small) collection of Ainu and Ryukyu artifacts. When I visited they were also running a special exhibit on art from Tōfuku-ji temple in Kyōto, the site where Zen Buddhism entered Japan for the first time.

I met Tess and the TAG for dinner that night at [Sushizanmai][sushizanmai] in Shibuya, and a couple drinks (including some tasty mocktails for me!) at [Trench][trench]. Their main location was full up so they sent us to their Annex on the fifth floor of a building around the block. It was a great space with tasty drinks.

Day 14: Ginza

The TAG meeting finished, Tess and I got to spend the day together. We decided to explore Ginza. Tess found [bill's][bills] for breakfast, which is a cool spot on an upper floor of a building nestled between the Ginza locations of several high-end fashion brands.

• Tōkyō Eki

• Imperial palace grounds

• Hibiya Park

• The [Seiko museum][seiko-museum]

• Bic Camera where Tess bought a GS

• [Centre][centre] for a late lunch: strawberry sandwich!

• Dinner with [Mike][mike-smith] and [Naoko][nao-smith], Zen, Mui, and Mila at [St. Buffalo][st-buffalo]

Day 15: Pride!

• Breakfast at Rec Coffee (again! finally!)
• Pride festival in Yoyogi park
• Marching in the parade with Rainbow Family
• Coffee at Beasty
• Walk through Shinjuku
• Hanazono jinja
• Donyoku for a snack
• Dorobune for drinks and food with Ray
• Combini katsu sandwich and mochi

Day 16

• Flying home today

[fushimi-inari-torii]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/fushimi-inari-torii" >}} "Fushimi Inari Torii" [kiyomizu-dera-post]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/kiyomizu-dera-pagoda" >}} "Kiyomizu-Dera Pagoda" [kyoto-handicrafts-center]: https://www.kyotohandicraftcenter.com [tozando]: https://tozandoshop.com [beerpub-takimuya]: https://www.instagram.com/beerpubtakumiya/ [curio-espress]: https://www.curioespresso.com/our-story/ [7th-gyoza]: https://www.white-gyouza.co.jp/branch/kanazawa.html [new-otani]: https://www.newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/ [hocus-pocus]: https://hocuspocus.jp/ [dominica-maps]: https://goo.gl/maps/spLdi6JwYfcFPdmY8 [rainbow-burritos-maps]: https://goo.gl/maps/p3wx1Rs3yXVmPaU76 [rec-coffee]: https://rec-coffee.com/pages/shibuyahigashi [hands]: https://info.hands.net/ [rainbow-pancake]: http://rainbowpancake.net [souflee-pancakes]: {{< ref "/photos/2023/souflee-pancakes" >}} "Souflée Pancakes" [kiddy-land]: https://www.kiddyland.co.jp/ [seiko-seed]: https://www.seiko-seed.com/tenshairspring/ [five-g]: https://fiveg.net/ [meiji-jingu]: https://www.meijijingu.or.jp [sushizanmai]: https://www.kiyomura.co.jp [goodbeer]: # [pelican]: https://pelicancafe.jp [hat-coffee]: https://www.hatcoffee.jp [hop-scotch]: https://www.hopscotchtokyo.com [yasaiya]: https://yasaiya.Tōkyō [sword-museum]: https://www.touken.or.jp/museum/ [gantz]: https://www.instagram.com/gantz.shinjuku/ [ellevie]: https://twitter.com/ellevie_ [kotoku-in]: https://kotoku-in.jp [hase-dera]: https://www.hasedera.jp [bear-pond]: https://www.facebook.com/people/Bear-Pond-Espresso/100063530142240/ [tsutaya]: https://tsutaya.tsite.jp [na-kameno]: https://www.mugen-c.jp/store_shibuya-stream.html [inc]: http://www.bar-inc.co.jp [cafe-veloce]: https://c-united.co.jp/store/detail/000343/ [mameya]: https://www.koffee-mameya.com [tnm]: https://www.tnm.jp/ [trench]: https://small-axe.net/bar-trench/ [bills]: https://billsjapan.com/jp [seiko-museum]: https://museum.seiko.co.jp/en/ [centre]: https://www.instagram.com/centre_the_bakery/ [mike-smith]: https://sideshowbarker.net [nao-smith]: https://twitter.com/naoishikura [st-buffalo]: https://goo.gl/maps/W75QDhUk63UNxnsq7